What is the Advantage and Disadvantage of Rust-Proof Foam Reinforced Metal Cotton Materials

Fiberglass is the most common insulation used in modern times. Because of how it is made, by effectively weaving fine strands of glass into an insulation material, fiberglass is able to minimize heat transfer. The main downside of fiberglass is the danger of handling it. Since fiberglass is made out of finely woven silicon, glass powder and tiny shards of glass are formed. These can cause damage to the eyes, lungs, and even skin if the proper safety equipment isn't worn. Nevertheless, when the proper safety equipment is used, fiberglass installation can be performed without incident.

Goto NFJ to know more.

Fiberglass is an excellent non-flammable insulation material, with R-values ranging from R-2.9 to R-3.8 per inch. If you are seeking a cheap insulation this is definitely the way to go, though installing it requires safety precautions. Be sure to use eye protection, masks, and gloves when handling this product.

2. Mineral Wool

Mineral wool actually refers to several different types of insulation. First, it may refer to glass wool which is fiberglass manufactured from recycled glass. Second, it may refer to rock wool which is a type of insulation made from basalt. Finally, it may refer to slag wool which is produced from the slag from steel mills. The majority of mineral wool in the United States is actually slag wool.

Mineral wool can be purchased in batts or as a loose material. Most mineral wool does not have additives to make it fire resistant. However, it is a non-combustible material, so can prevent the spread of fires up to 1,400 degrees Fahrenheit, but may not always be the best option when extreme heat is present. Mineral wool has an R-value ranging from R-2.8 to R-3.5.

3. Cellulose

Cellulose insulation is perhaps one of the most eco-friendly forms of insulation. Cellulose is made from recycled cardboard, paper, and other similar materials and comes in loose form. Cellulose has an R-value between R-3.1 and R-3.7. Some recent studies on cellulose have shown that it might be an excellent product for use in minimizing fire damage. Because of the compactness of the material, cellulose contains next to no oxygen within it. Without oxygen within the material, this helps to minimize the amount of damage that a fire can cause.

So not only is cellulose perhaps one of the most eco-friendly forms of insulation, but it is also one of the most fire resistant forms of insulation. However, there are certain downsides to this material as well, such as the allergies that some people may have to newspaper dust. Also, finding individuals skilled in using this type of insulation is relatively hard compared to, say, fiberglass. Still, cellulose is a cheap and effective means of insulating.

4. Polyurethane Foam

While not the most abundant of insulations, polyurethane foams are an excellent form of insulation. Nowadays, polyurethane foams use non-chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) gas for use as a blowing agent. This helps to decrease the amount of damage to the ozone layer. They are relatively light, weighing approximately two pounds per cubic foot (2 lb/ft^3). They have an R-value of approximately R-6.3 per inch of thickness. There are also low density foams that can be sprayed into areas that have no insulation. These types of polyurethane insulation tend to have approximately R-3.6 rating per inch of thickness. Another advantage of this type of insulation is that it is fire resistant.

5. Polystyrene

Polystyrene is a waterproof thermoplastic foam which is an excellent sound and temperature insulation material. It comes in two types, expanded (EPS) and extruded (XEPS) also known as Styrofoam. The two types differ in performance ratings and cost. The more costly XEPS has a R-value of R-5.5 while EPS is R-4. Polystyrene insulation has a uniquely smooth surface which no other type of insulation possesses.

Typically the foam is created or cut into blocks, ideal for wall insulation. The foam is flammable and needs to be coated in a fireproofing chemical called Hexabromocyclododecane (HBCD). HBCD has been brought under fire recently for health and environmental risks associated with its use.

Other Common Insulation Materials

Although the items listed above are the most common insulation materials, they are not the only ones used. Recently, materials like aerogel (used by NASA for the construction of heat resistant tiles, capable of withstanding heat up to approximately degrees Fahrenheit with little or no heat transfer), have become affordable and available.  One in particular is Pyrogel XT. Pyrogel is one of the most efficient industrial insulations in the world. Its required thicknesses are 50% ' 80% less than other insulation materials. Although a little more expensive than some of the other insulation materials, Pyrogel is being used more and more for specific applications. Other materials used can be ceramic fiber, flexible closed cell sheet insulation and mass loaded vinyl.

Best Thermal Insulation Material for Steam Pipes

The best material for steam pipe insulation is the type you can remove to perform regular inspections. While fiberglass has been a popular choice in the past, it cannot be taken off to allow for inspections, which means it's no longer the best material for steam pipes.

A Thermaxx insulation jacket is an ideal option for steam pipe insulation. These jackets are easily installed and removed when necessary without requiring specialized skills, and the insulation types used are determined by your specific requirements. We offer Thermaxx jackets in numerous normal pipe sizes, ranging from 2 to 24 inches. Our jackets are designed have a touch temperature of 120 degrees or less to reduce energy loss and be more skin-friendly.

Finally, our jackets are the best for steam pipe insulation because they are customizable. If you have a pipe that is larger than a standard size, oddly-shaped or otherwise non-standard, we can design and manufacture one specific for your system. Our jackets help to keep moisture out, improving the lifetime of the insulation and underlying pipes, resulting in increased cost-effectiveness.

Mineral Wool vs. Fiberglass

Mineral wool and fiberglass are two common types of thermal insulation. Mineral wool is made from steel slag and basalt, making it more eco-friendly than other insulation types. A manufacturer makes it by spinning molten rock quickly while blowing cool air on it. Characteristics of mineral wool insulation include the following:

• It is heavier and denser than fiberglass, giving it a higher R-value.
• Mineral wool can be challenging to install and often requires professional assistance.
• It is more resistant to fire, mold, fungus, and moisture than some other materials.
• Mineral wool can often be more expensive.
• It is often more durable than materials like fiberglass.

Fiberglass is made by using fine glass fibers from materials like soda ash, borax, silica sand, and limestone. Check out these fiberglass characteristics:

• It can be more flexible, making it easier to accommodate obstructions.
• It is often easier to install with professional assistance.
• Fiberglass is also highly fire-resistant.

Fiberglass and mineral wool have advantages and disadvantages, making it crucial to weigh all the factors.

Fiberglass vs. Cellulose

Cellulose is another type of pipe insulation. It is made with recycled newspapers, cardboard, and magazines, will not itch during installation and comes in several R-values. Cellulose works as thermal insulation and has a high resistance to mold and mildew. Cellulose also has the benefit of being fire retardant.

Fiberglass offers improved protection against mildew and mold compared to cellulose and has an easier installation process. That said, cellulose has a more in-depth R-value.

Cellulose may settle after installation, which can cause it to lose its R-value. On the other hand, fiberglass is known for retaining its original form and can last longer.

Finally, cellulose is fire retardant like fiberglass, but it can pose other safety risks because it starts turning to dust over time. As a result, the chemicals used to make the cellulose are released into the air and can be harmful.

Traditional vs. Advanced Pipe Insulation

Traditional steam pipe insulation is often made from fiberglass. You have to use it with an all-service jacket, which is a reinforced paper that is laminated to a layer of lightweight foil. These conventional materials offer some benefits, such as being lightweight and low-cost. However, traditional insulation can present challenges like:

• Increased risk of moisture: Since you have to cut a hole in fiberglass insulation, you have a greater risk of water entering the pipe system, raising the risk of corrosion under insulation (CUI).
• Time-consuming inspections: As mentioned above, you will need to cut into the fiberglass insulation to get to the pipe and perform an inspection. This process is more time-consuming than removing an insulation jacket quickly.
• Decreased performance: Aside from cutting into the fiberglass, which already decreases its performance, the material can also settle or become compacted, reducing the thickness and altering performance.
• Negative environmental impacts: Fiberglass cannot be reused or recycled, unlike a thermal jacket that can be removed.

When we say 'advanced pipe insulation,' we are referring to removable thermal jackets. Thermal insulation jackets offer numerous benefits that make them one of the best choices for pipe insulation. Advantages of using our Thermaxx jackets include:

• Lowered energy costs: Thermaxx insulation jackets reduce the cost of energy, allowing them to pay for themselves in as little as a year.
• Easier maintenance and inspection: You can easily remove our thermal jackets to perform routine inspection or maintenance on your pipes.
• Less waste: Unlike other materials that you must cut into and replace when you do inspections, you can simply remove our jackets whenever necessary. Put them back on to reduce overall waste.
• Improved equipment life: Your pipes remain protected beneath Thermaxx insulation jackets, reducing their exposure to weather, elements, and accidental damage, which can prolong their life.
• Better workplace safety: Thermal jackets help improve workplace safety by preventing workers from coming in direct contact with high-temperature pipes.
• Increased corrosion prevention: We offer Thermaxx jackets for wet and dry applications and water drainage solutions, helping prevent CUI.

What to Consider When Choosing Your Pipe Insulation

When choosing pipe insulation, it's crucial to consider all the factors. Everything from the materials and costs to where you plan to use the insulation play essential roles in the type of insulation you will need for your pipes. Factors to consider include:

• Material: As discussed above, different types of insulation offer unique benefits and disadvantages. Consider which ones would work best for your application. Thermaxx insulation jackets are useful for many applications, making them a top material choice.
• Cost: Cost is another factor to consider. Some materials for pipe insulation have higher initial costs but pay for themselves over time. Others are low-cost installations, which can be useful if you're on a budget. Finding the right insulation that is the most cost-effective for your operations and budget is the ideal solution.
• Thickness: The thickness of your pipe insulation is something else to consider. Are you insulating pipes indoors or outdoors? Will they be exposed to extreme temperatures or weather? You need pipe insulation that is thick enough for how you intend to use it.
• Measurement: How large are the pipes you need to insulate? This measurement will play a role in how much you need and influences the thickness you need, affecting the materials you can use and their costs.

'How dull it is to pause, to make an end,
To rust unburnish'd, not to shine in use!
As tho' to breathe were life!'

Alfred Lord Tennyson, Ulysses

Between damaged tools and guns, corrosion prevention has been a high priority for your humble servant over the years motivating me to purchase many corrosion-prevention products and test them in various climates. After scaling mountains of hype and fording floods of BS I think at last I have something of value, perhaps even the genuine article, to share with Gentle Readers.

While by no means comprehensive, in this article your humble servant will address three common causes of corrosion in steel woodworking tools, as well as some methods of prevention. The three causes are: Corrosion due to sharpening, corrosion due to handling, and corrosion due to storage.

But first, to help Gentle Reader understand the basis for the measures I will recommend below, allow me to explain my sharpening philosophy.

Tool Philosophy

The word 'philosophy' is of Greek origin and means the 'love of wisdom.' I won't flatter myself that I developed any original wisdom about maintaining tools, because the truth is I stole most of what I know from better men and the rest came ipso facto from my own screw-ups. Shame is the best teacher.

Professional craftsmen have no choice but to constantly maintain and repair the tools of their trade, but necessary or no, clients and employers often resent the time the craftsmen they hire spend maintaining tools during the work day. After all, they are paying them to make a product, not to fiddle with tools, at least that's how most Clients look at it.

Imagine you hired a contractor with an excavator to dig a septic field and hole for a septic tank for you, but until his work is completed, the plumbers, riggers, truck drivers, and laborers hired by the hour to install the tank and field have little to do but stand by twiddling their thumbs. Now imagine the man decides he must change the oil of his excavator and grease the fittings before he can actually start digging, and proceeds to do this necessary maintenance in front of you and the other workmen who are also getting paid by the hour.

Machinery maintenance is part of the job, no doubt, but the operator should have been done it beforehand at a time and place that would not delay the project and everyone else's work. Is this analogy always relevant? Perhaps not, but in the eyes of the Client paying the money, relevance be damned, it's daylight robbery!

The perceptive craftsman will strive to understand his Client's perspective if he wants to be trusted with profitable repeat work.

Therefore, I don't sharpen, fettle, or repair my tools at the jobsite anymore than is absolutely necessary, and never in front of the Client or employer. This is not some feel-good yuppy-zen BS, but a serious, concrete work philosophy with physical and financial consequences. It was taught to me by experienced craftsmen in America and Japan, all since retired to the big lumberyard in the sky, who knew what they were about. It has served me well.

So how do I keep working when blades dull, planes stop shaving, power tools stop spinning, and bits stop biting? The most reliable solution is to have multiple saws, planes and chisels in the types/sizes critical for that day's work, and even extra bits and power tools on-hand whenever possible, so that if a particular chisel or plane becomes too dull to get the job done, or a bit breaks, or a circular saw, for instance, goes tits-up, I need only pause work long enough to retrieve a sharp, ready to rock-n-roll replacement from my toolbox or tool bag.

This means I must purchase, sharpen, fettle and carry around more tools than I am likely to use during that workday. But since I don't carry my tools in my 'pocketses', and they are partners that earn their keep, I do not consider it wasted money. In fact, this philosophy has resulted in tool-maintenance habits that I believe ultimately save me time and money while improving my work efficiency all while reinforcing my Client's or employer's confidence in me, just as the old boys I try to emulate said they would.

Of course, after a few days of continuous work I will have accumulated multiple blades that need sharpening, so if I am to keep making sawdust I must sharpen them in batches of 5~10 at a time. And because I sharpen in batches, as do professional sharpeners, I have given great thought over the years to maximizing positive results such as speed, sharpness achieved, and economical use of stones while minimizing negative results such as rusted steel. I humbly encourage Gentle Reader to give these matters just a few seconds of consideration. What have you got to lose besides steel?

If you want to learn more, please visit our website Rust-Proof Foam Reinforced Metal Cotton Materials.

Corrosion Prevention: Wet Sharpening

The corrosion risk to tools when sharpening is caused by residual water in the scratches, cracks and crevices of the blade, as well as accumulated chlorine from tap water, promoting rust, especially at the very thin cutting edge. Yes, that's right, I'm more worried about corrosion dulling the cutting edge than of it creating unsightly red spots elsewhere on the blade.

When sharpening a batch of blades in my workshop, after a blade is done on the final finish stone, I dry it with a clean rag or paper towel, apply a few drops of Corrosion Block, smear it around on the blade to ensure a complete coating, and set it aside to draw water out of the pores and seal the steel. It works.

Corrosion-X is another good, but stinkier, product. Neither is good enough long-term, however.

After the blades have sat for a while, usually at the conclusion of the batch, I wipe off the CB and apply CRC 3-36. This is a paraffin-based corrosion preventative that floats out water. Paraffin won't evaporate or wick-off and is the best product I have found to prevent rust developing on a clean, moisture-free surface.

CRC 3-36 sprays on easily and soaks into everything, and if allowed to dry, will give good long-term protection, as in years. It's especially good for saw blades because it gets deep into the teeth. But you don't want to apply it to anything even a little wet with water because paraffin may seal it in promoting rust. Ergo, Corrosion Block first.

There are many rust-prevention products on the market, so I am not suggesting CRC3-36 is the best, only the one I prefer, partly because The Mistress of the Blue Horizons doesn't object to the smell too strongly if it wafts into her holy chambers from the grubby workshop. If I use Corrosion-X, however, she bars the door with her trusty broom, bayonet fixed and leveled at my genital area, and makes me strip off my stinky clothes before she'll let me back into the house. My love is a gentle flower' ! With sharp knives'! But I digress.

This system works fine for short-term purposes, and even for long-term storage if I wrap the tool in newspaper or plastic to protect the coating.

When sharpening in the field, or if I will be using the tool right away, I don't bother with spray products, but just strop the blade on a clean cloth or the palm of my hand to generate friction heat, apply some oil from my oilpot, and call it good.

If you don't own and use an oilpot already I won't call you an idiot, but I still remember the time long ago when that word was directed at me by someone I respected for not making and using one. He was right.

A useful trick I learned from professional sword sharpeners in Japan is to use chlorine-free, slightly alkaline water for sharpening. I mix Borax powder with distilled water in a plastic lab bottle to use to keep stones wet and to wash blades when sharpening. Washing soda works too. A little lye added to sharpening water will also increase its pH. Using such water will not entirely prevent corrosion, but it certainly slows it way down. Test it for yourself.

Corrosion Prevention: Handling

We sometimes pull out a chisel, saw, or plane blade to gaze upon it. They are lovely creatures, after all, and deserve our adoration. There are two things to be aware of when doing this, however.

Recall that the adult human body is comprised of approximately 60% water, some of which is constantly leaking out of our skins mixed with oils and salts. When you touch bare steel with your hands, skin oils, sweat, and the salt contained in sweat stick to the steel and will cause rust. It's only a matter of how quickly and deeply.

The solution is to avoid touching bare steel you will later store away with bare fingers, and if you do touch the blade, wipe it clean and apply some oil from your oilpot or spray can right away before returning it to storage.

Gentle Reader may be unaware, but there can be no doubt that harsh words not only hurt the tender feelings of quality tools, but can directly damage them. How do I know that rude language offends steel tools, you say? Well, I have ears don't I? In addition, over the years I learned a thing or two from professional Japanese sword sharpeners and evaluators, who are even more obsessed with rust than your paranoid humble servant, no doubt because of the high financial and historical costs of corrosion in rare and expensive antique weapons.

With the gift to the entire world of the Wuhan Flu from Dr. Anthony Fauci (aka Mr. Fake Science) and his Chinese research team, we have all become more aware of the human tendency to constantly spew droplets of bodily fluids, often containing nasty bugs, into the air around us sometimes with unpleasant consequences. A handsaw can't catch the Fauci Flu, but fine droplets may find their way to the steel surface when we talk to them or around them. Corrosion ensues.

In Japan it is considered rude to speak when holding a bare sword. Indeed, it is SOP to require viewers who will get close to a bare blade to grip a piece of clean paper between their teeth to confirm the mouth is indeed closed and not spewing droplets of spit onto the blade.

I am not exaggerating the cumulative long-term damage fingerprints and moisture droplets expelled from human mouths and noses cause to steel objects. Any museum curator can confirm.

How does this all apply to woodworking tools? If Gentle Reader takes a tool out of storage and either talks to it, or to humans around it, please wipe it clean, apply oil, and rewrap it unless you will be using it immediately. It's the only polite thing to do.

Tools deserve respect. Perhaps I'm superstitious, but I'm convinced that if we avoid rudely smearing salty sweat or spraying globs of spittle that would cause our tools to turn red and go away, they in turn will be less inclined to cause us to leak red sticky stuff. Some tools are vindictive if offended, donchano, and many of them can bite.

Corrosion Prevention: Storage

The air on this earth contains dust and moisture. Dust often contains abrasive particles harder than steel as well as salts and other corrosive chemicals. We must keep these particles and chemicals away from our tools.

Air also contains moisture that, given access and a temperature differential, can condense on steel tool blades causing condensation rust.

Your humble servant discussed these matters in length in earlier articles about toolchests, but a critical criteria of proper storage is to prevent dust from landing on tools, and to prevent the tools from exposure to airborne moisture and temperature differentials. A closed, tightly sealed, clean container, cabinet, toolchest or toolbox is better for tool storage than pegboards or shelves.

If Gentle Reader does not already have such a tool container of some sort, I urge you to procure or make one.

Tool Rolls

Your humble servant owns and uses canvas tool rolls because they are handy for transporting tools such as chisels, files, rasps and saws to and from jobsites, but they have limitations of which Gentle Reader should be aware.

The first problem with tool rolls is that they appear to protect the cutting edges of chisels and saws, but that is only wishful thinking because the delicate and dangerous cutting edges are only hidden behind a thin layer of fabric. Guess what happens if you drop a cloth tool roll of sharp chisels onto a concrete slab.

If you bump a tool roll of chisels against another tool, then brush your hand against the now exposed but hidden cutting edges while digging in your toolbox, red sticky stuff may get everywhere. Oh, the humanity! Will this wanton bloodshed never end!?

Do tool rolls protect tools against corrosion? No, in fact they can make it much worse because fibers in contact with steel, especially organic fibers such as cotton, can wick moisture to the steel producing corrosion. Please see the photos above.

Leather tool rolls can be especially bad in some cases because of residual tanning chemicals.

I'm not saying don't use tool rolls, only to be aware of their limitations and use them wisely.

As mentioned above, I do use fabric tool rolls in the field. The trick to preventing rusted blades is to insulate them from direct contact with the canvas, so I make little plastic liners from the hard but flexible plastic used for theft-proof retail product packaging that fit into the pockets. Just a strip of plastic cut wide enough to fit into the pocket tightly and folded in half. Besides preventing rusty blades (chisel crowns will still rust) these little liners make it much faster and easier to insert blades into the pockets without cutting the tool roll, and to keep the blades from cutting their way out of the tool roll once inserted. The price is right too.

Canvas tool wraps are convenient for transporting handsaws, but they too provide limited protection. I wrap my saw blades in thin polyethylene sheet foam to help protect the teeth, isolate the blade from direct contact with cotton fabric, and add some insulation.

If you need to use tool rolls for long-term storage, I recommend you clean the tools, coat them with a paraffin-based rust-prevention product like CRC3-36, and wrap them full-length in plastic wrap before inserting them into the tool roll's plastic-lined pockets.

If tools are faithful and profitable servants, indeed extensions of our hands and minds, don't they deserve more from us while they are in our care than a rusty, pitted, neglected fate like the plane blade pictured above?

YMHOS

Related Articles:

• The Essential Oilpot
• Tool Maintenance ' Corrosion Preventio

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